Refugio Otto Meiling

When Katrina and I mapped out a three-day hike across Mount Tronador, a mountaineering club in Bariloche told us there were two refugios where we could sleep. Mountain shelters, which made me think of old mattresses lining the floor of a cramped room, unbathed hikers sleeping head to feet, cold wind rattling thin windows. All …

1200 pesos = $100 = 800 pesos

A liter of Imperial beer, a local standard here, costs 24 pesos at a nearby corner store. In US dollars that’s three bucks. It’s also two bucks. That’s because in Argentina a dollar is never a dollar. To understand this strange math, let’s take a stroll along Calle Mitre in downtown Bariloche, a bustling strip …

caballos y carne

The Dogs of Bariloche

According to Wikipedia, the Dogo Argentino is a large, white, muscular dog originally bred to hunt wild boar and puma and “to protect its human companion to the death.” And I’m pretty sure that’s what was crouching on the other side of a flimsy fence, emitting something between a bark and a thunder clap, scaring …